Tag Archive for 'terroir'

Bottle Shock and Judgement of Paris

Two new movies about the 1976 Paris tasting which Hollywood will not let the French forget. No doubt encouraged by the sleeper success of Sideways these new movies will probably not receive the same critical acclaim – judging by this article in the Toronto Globe and Mail by Beppi Crosariol.

Wine connoisseurs - I call them cons

BEPPI CROSARIOL
bcrosariol@globeandmail.com

July 23, 2008

It was the taste-off that turned wine upside down.

In 1976, an esteemed all-French jury gathered in Paris for a blind tasting to compare eight of France’s greatest wines against a dozen upstarts from California. In an upset worthy of Hollywood, the United States trounced France, winning top honours in both the red and white categories.

Now, Hollywood has finally found its way to the story. Not one but two films based on the so-called Judgment of Paris will duke it out for attention this year. Bottle Shock, a rollicking comedy-drama based on true events that stars Alan Rickman, opens in Toronto on Aug. 6 and is slated to roll out to theatres across the country later in the summer. The second film, Judgment of Paris, based on the official story by the only journalist to attend the Paris tasting, Time magazine’s George Taber, is due later this year.

The event’s significance has predictably been interpreted the same way ever since: California had vaulted its way into the wine stratosphere. True. But if there’s justice, the films will also be a reminder - in these boom times for wine snobbery - of a message far more overdue…..

Ending with…

……Ironically, Bottle Shock perpetuates that superhuman-taster myth even as the factual part of the story undermines it. In one pivotal, fictional scene, Gustavo, a Mexican-American cellar hand employed by Chateau Montelena, wows a crowded Napa barroom by identifying the legendary 1947 Cheval Blanc, a red Bordeaux, in an impromptu brown-bag challenge.

So, let me get this straight: A spunky American kid can nail the nuances of great French terroir in a blind tasting when an esteemed panel of seasoned European experts can’t?

Apparently, 32 years after French arrogance got its comeuppance in the Judgment of Paris, wine jingoism is alive and well and living in America.

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Chateauneuf du Pape Tasting

My wine group got together this week for a Chateauneuf du Pape tasting.  Eleven people, eight wines, and more than enough cheese made for a wonderful night at my house.  Just like with our last Piedmont tasting, it was really interesting to be able to taste all of these wines from outside of California side by side.  

This method of tasting is so educational and really helps me develop my palate.  It allows for memory retention through repetition and highlights flaws or abnormalities. Chateauneuf du Pape is a particularly interesting appellation because of its unique terroir (rocky soil) and strict control over production.  

Located in the Southern Rhone wine region in southeastern France and home to Grenache dominated blends of up to 13 different grape varietals, of which Syrah and Mouvedre are two of the most well known.  

Grenache is a medium bodied red grape known to have soft tannins and aromas of red fruits (think raspberry and strawberry).  It is usually blended to add acidity, structure, and color.  The wines from the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation are high in alcohol (requires the highest minimum alcohol level, 12.5%, of any appellation in France).  

Dry, rugged, rustic, earthy, herbacious - these are adjectives that can be used to describe these wines, whose silky yet puckering tannins make this wine fantastic with food.The intrinsic minerality in these wines is due to the fact that the vines are planted amongst rocks and pebbles.  This is a serious case of the effect of terroir on how the wine tastes and smells.  There is a layer of stones present in the soil of the vineyards called galets (”pebbles”). 

When considering food pairings for Chateauneuf du Pape style wines I recommend hearty Fall and Winter dishes that will not overwhelm the wine while at the same time matching its firm yet soft tannic structure.  Think tied bundles of Provencal herbs and roast lamb.  We had an array of foods to go with the wine, but I would have to say that my favorite pairing was a lentil and butternut squash soup.  

Other favorites were  roasted polenta and toasted baguette slices with a sweet quince paste.  I would advise against too much garlic or spice because your palette will not be overwhelmed and it will take away from the wine.  I made this mistake by putting too much garlic on the bruschetta.  

I could barely taste the first wine because of this.  Also, for high alcohol wines such as these (defined as higher than 12%) avoid salty dishes which can make wine taste bitter.  Keep in mind that tannin is not only found in grape skins, but also can be found in, for example, the skin of walnuts.  Match tannin with tannin and incorporate something like walnuts into your cooking.  Match the herbaceousness of the wine with herbaceous food.

Our wild card wine was the 2005 Santa Barbara Winery Grenache/Syrah.  This very approachable wine exhibits a fruitier quality, being that it is relatively young and from California, than those grown in the Southern Rhone.  It was very popular in the tasting and received second place out of the eight!  I love it with green olives and fresh bread.

Joan Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Off Beat Reds from Santa Barbara Winery

Winemaker Bruce McGuire Tests Terroir 

The Santa Ynez Valley’s extended growing season has turned out some fabulous gems, especially from the 2005 vintage which is ready for its close up.  Early bud break and a long swing on the vine translated into a rich, supple Pinot Noir and ripe, concentrated Chardonnay — tenets the appellation has long been known for.

What many wine enthusiasts aren’t aware of are the cache of offbeat wines crafted from this appellation.  Winemaker Bruce McGuire’s passion for unsung gems is well documented; in any given year he creates 30+ wines from one harvest, ranging from Nebbiolo to Rose of Syrah, Negrette, White Riesling and Grenache.

McGuire’s eye to determining which varietals will thrive in this region has turned out some exquisite wines.  Much like chess, it’s an intellectually stimulating exercise to introduce obscure grapes from other parts of the world and adapt them to the Santa Barbara landscape – and American palate. These non-traditional varietals require both talent and tenacity, which McGuire has proven since joining the winery in 1981.

Crated in small lots, two of Santa Barbara Winery’s most unique reds are featured below. For a full list go to Santa Barbara Winery.

2005 Santa Barbara Winery Primitivo ($23)

Twelve miles east of Lafond Vineyards in Los Olivos, Joughin Vineyard proved the perfect spot for this varietal, named after the Primitivo vines grown in the Pulgia region of Italy, and now known to be genetically identical to Zinfandel. This sultry wine represents the region’s warmer climate with a fruit-forward nose, plump brambleberry and spicy black pepper overtones. The 2005 vintage offer high yields and extended barrel time (16 months) in French/American oak added to the wine’s pronounced length and density. A definite date with Mr. Lambshank, this wine also pairs well with Italian foods such as Tuscan beef and linguine marinara and a wide range of cheeses. $23.00/750 ml.

2005 Santa Barbara Winery Grenache ($22).

This Southern Rhone varietal from Lafond Vineyards in the Sta. Hills AVA is ready for its close up. Long known as a blending grape, its low yields of the 2005 vintage (5 tons from 2 acres) produced a plump, meaty wine with bright acidity and smoky bacon and spicy oak overtones. Planted in the warmest swath of Lafond’s cool-climate vineyard, McGuire believes this grape has great potential as a stand-alone vintage best served with pizza, spicy Indian or Thai or a thick rib eye on the barbeque. $22.00/750ml

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