Tag Archive for 'steak'

More Cheeses

Cheese is similar to wine in that to think about all of the different cheeses produced in the world, in each and every town, can be very intimidating. But, the subject becomes more approachable when you don’t immediately look to the big picture, but instead break it down and learn little by little. Last week I attended my monthly Spiritland Bistro Wednesday Wine and Dine dinner and was introduced to three new cheeses that were paired as a starter course with the West Coast Cabernet Sauvignon themed tasting: Queso de Valdeon, Chaource, and Comte.

Queso de Valdeon is produced in Spain and can also be called Valdeon Cheese here in the States. It is named for Valdeon, the town that it comes from. It is a salty blue veined cheese with a strong flavor profile. Made from a blend of cow and goat’s milk it gets its characteristic earthy taste from being wrapped in a layer of sycamore leaves prior to aging. I have heard that it is excellent when melted on hangar steak.

Chaource is an ancient cheese that has been named for the small town in France where it has been made since the early 14th century. The village of Chaource is located in the Champagne-Ardenne region. This is a cow’s milk double cream cheese similar to Camembert but with an even creamier texture that is absolutely mouth wateringly delicious. Its rich ripe flavor is offset by its mushroom scent, giving it a very unique profile. It is produced in elegant small discs of soft centers surrounded by a white rind.

Comte comes from the Franche-Comte region of eastern France and is also called Gruyere de Comte. This cows milk semi-firm cheese has an underlying nutty sweetness (think almond skins drizzled with a hint of honey). A delicious cheese to eat on its own, it is also a notoriously fantastic melting cheese.

I brought along a 1999 Santa Barbara Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) to the dinner, and it is at prime drinking age. We currently have it available in our cellar selections and it can be ordered by phone or in the tasting room

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Weekly Sundowner Specials at Pierre Lafond Bistro

The Pierre Lafond Bistro (516 State St.) has introduced “Weekly Sundowner Specials” to their menu, which are offered from 5-7pm Sunday-Wednesday.  It is now one of the few places in town offering a happy hour that extends throughout most of the week as opposed to just one day.  

The Sundowner Special includes:

House Salad or Small Caesar Salad

Chicken, Salmon, Steak, or Pasta (from the menu, listed below)

Ice Cream, Sorbet, or Glass of House Wine

25.00

Shelton Farms Chicken Scallopini with spinach, wild mushrooms, roast garlic, mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, white wine, and capers (regular menu, 18.00)

Grilled Organic Salmon with artichoke, corn native tomatoes, summer greens, and dijon glaze (21.00 regular menu)

Grilled Marinated Bistro Steak with roasted baby potatoes, sun dried tomatoes, arugula and tuscan salsa verde (21.00 regular menu)

Fusilli Pasta with smoked chicken, sun dried tomatoes, olives, pine nuts, basil pesto, fresh parmesean, and drizzled with local olive oil (17.00 regular menu)

Wild Mushroom Sacchetti Pasta with exotic mushrooms, sweet garlic, tomatoes, spinach, pea shoots, and Santa Barbara Chardonnay sauce (18.00 regular menu)

With plenty of options available for such a great price you can make everybody happy, especially the person paying the bill!

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Leyden Cheese

If you are on the lookout for unique cheeses, your best bet is to turn to specialty cheese shops, not the grocery store.  Santa Barbara’s newest cheese shop (which is actually appropriately and simply called The Cheese Shop) gives customers the opportunity to taste a variety of obscure and cheeses.  When you go into a wine shop or a winery with a specific meal plan in mind, employees can steer you in the direction of the best wine pairing (at least this is the hope).

Same goes for The Cheese Shop.  I went there for the first time looking for a spiced cheese that would be good for tacos.  That’s all that I had to say before mid-sentence practically the guy behind the counter pulled out a cheese that fit the bill.  With a cheese knife he sliced off a thin sliver and let me taste it.  The cheese that he chose for me was Leyden Cheese (aka Cumin Cheese).  

This is a light yellow to orangish-tan spiced cheese made in the Netherlands from partly skimmed cow’s milk.  Caraway cumin seeds and sometimes cloves are added to a portion of the curd.  A little bit of buttermilk is also added to enhanced the richness and depth of flavor.  Its firm texture and subtle spiciness make it the perfect cheese to grate on your chicken tacos (which is my go to dinner that I make with leftover chicken or steak from the night before).  Try it with a hearty red wine with soft tannins  (because of the spiciness) such as Santa Barbara Winery’s Grenache Syrah, or a Corona.  

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Summer Solstice Dinner Recap

Amidst a backdrop of State Street’s Tuesday evening Farmers’ Market, the Bistro dished out a five course meal paired with wines to celebrate summer solstice.  Executive Chef Josh Keating and Santa Barbara Winery Assistant Winemakers Ryan Ralston and Cameron Bendetsen were on hand to discuss the culinary and pairing choices between each course.  Following closely to the Solstice theme, each table had colorful masks in the middle as a playful decoration.  Two dimensional paper maiche pig heads hung from the ceiling and appeared to have been crafted at the Solstice workshop where floats and masks are made for Saturday’s parade.  

The setting sun provided natural light for most of the evening causing the floating jacaranda flowers to sparkle.  In celebration of solstice part of the proceeds from the dinner went to fun the annual event.  This was the perfect opportunity to recognize and sample new releases that we have available at Santa Barbara Winery and Lafond Winery.  Five of our most recent releases featured were the 2007 Pinot Gris, 2007 Rose of Syrah, 2006 Martin Rey Clone Pinot, 2005 Petite Sirah, and 2007 7.3 Riesling.

The first plates came out of the kitchen at 7:30.  Actually, the tapas size portion was served in a small convex glass (which tasting room associate Alan Shapton referred to as an “upside down lampshade glass”).  A Tiger Shrimp Ceviche with mango and ripe avocado was served with the 2007 Pinot Gris and was probably my favorite pairing of the night.  Mouthwatering tropical fruit and complementary acidity cleansed the palate for what was to come.  The fattiness of the avocado cut through the Pinot Gris’ racy acidity and also brought out elements of sweet fruit when put together with the mango.  

As Josh stood in front of his guests he began lightly tapping on his crystal wine glass with a fork to get everybody’s attention, while he quietly asked Ryan, “can we tap these glasses?”  Experts in their field, the three spoke of the food and wine individually and why they chose the pairing.  I learned that although Pinot Gris is a white wine, it has red skins, but it is always made into white wine because there is not enough pigmentation in the skins to produce a red.

Next out of the kitchen was a Saffron Bouillabaise and 2007 Rose of Syrah.  This pairing is typical in Provence where Rose’s reign king.  Marseilles is the port city in France where this stew started.  Fishermen would come into the harbor on their boats and throw them into the broth.  The seafood broth here was made with saffron and the fish that was dropped in was salmon, halibut, escolar and shelled mussels.  The hot soup with a cold Rose made it lighter than it would be if paired with a red wine.  The Rose of Syrah allowed the dish to shine through and was a beautiful magenta pink in the crystal stemware against the flickering candlelight.  

Lafond Winery’s newest Pinot Noir release is a Martin Ray clone, and it came out alongside a Seared Scallop Crusted Salad.  This was actually the first time it has been served to a public audience since its release last week.  The simple salad was made from earty organic greens and tossed with a mustard rice wine vinaigrette.  Three crusted scallops were placed softly on the bed of lettuce and provided a nice crunchy texture to the salad.  Again Josh played with the element of pairing hot and cold placing warm scallops on cool lettuce, which really brought forward the salads earthy flavors.

Pommard clones produce a more feminine style Pinot than the Dijon clone (which can be done in a more Syrah-esque style) this lighter style Pinot’s bright red fruit showcases this elegance.  Aged primarily in neutral oak, this Pinot is already showing particularly well.  Martin Ray was a winemaker up in the Santa Cruz mountains who toured France’s Burgundy region and suitcased this clone back to California in the 1940s.  He named it after himself, which Ryan applauded stating, “Hey, if you do something for the first time, name it after yourself.”

Leading up to the main course these three lighter dishes paved the way for Steak Filet Mignon and Petite Sirah.  A peach-sized Filet sat on a square ceramic plate presented with butter steamed carrots and green button squash.  Point Reyes Cheese and a Syrah reduction sauce were drizzled on top.  Petite Sirah’s stick to your lips, teeth staining quality was appropriately paired with a tender steak cut.  The enormous amount of pigmentation in the skin of these small berries make it a rich, deeply colored and tannic wine bursting with dry dark fruit flavors and a hint of spicy licorice. 

After all of this food it was not a surprise that the choice of dessert was more of a delightful cleansing palate refresher than a decadent sweet.  A sorbet was paired with our 7.3% residual sugar Riesling, touching on the sweet tooth but not overwhelming.  The 7.3 Riesling is the sweeter of our two Rieslings, but it has a nice acidity to balance that out.  

I was happy to be a part of this Solstice gathering…  

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Lesson Learned

With all of the stress of holiday entertaining, why add choosing the right wines for your meal to the list? Chances are your guests are not going to pay much attention to whether you chose to serve a 2004 Oregonian Pinot or a 2002 Russian River Valley Pinot. That being said, wine and food pairing is a challenging, yet satisfying task for which there are no right or wrong answers. Who is to say that you cannot drink Chardonnay with steak? Or Syrah with salmon?

Until I became interested in wine I probably would not have even thought twice about it or noticed the difference. I barely even knew what tannins were let alone why they complemented certain foods and not others. But as my wine and food knowledge grows with every successful pairing I have encountered I now understand why some people become obsessed with finding the “perfect” matches.

There is just so much to think about in making the decision that it can be incredibly overwhelming. And every time I think that I am making progress in my wine education I open a restaurant’s wine list and am discouraged by the vast amount of information about wine that I don’t know.

This Thanksgiving was the first that I have paid any attention at all to the wine selection. The main lesson that I learned is that the rules are flexible. There is no perfect wine for Thanksgiving, Christmas, or Hanukkah dinner. All that you can do is use the knowledge that you have about the food you are serving, follow some basic guidelines and do your best.

Here is where the “rules” get tricky… My Dad asked me to look at the wines he was trying to choose from to serve with our Thanksgiving dinner. I was expecting to be choosing from a selection of Pinots because that is THE Thanksgiving wine right. Well, I was not prepared to be choosing from a selection that included a Napa Merlot, a Sea Smoke Pinot, and a rustic Chateauneuf du Pape.

The Merlot and Chateauneuf wines were older vintages (2002) so the tannins had mellowed, making their earthy complexity a good match for our dinner. It is this type of thinking outside the box which makes rules so frivolous. The wines were excellent with the hearty meal and it was interesting to experiment with different varietals than I would have come up with off of the top of my head.

We also had a Virginia Chardonnay from Monticello that paired very nicely with our truffle butter mashed potatoes (though I wouldn’t know first hand because I cannot stand potatoes). My uncle brought a great Sonoma Pinot, which was interesting to taste side by side with the Sea Smoke Pinot, adding an additional element of terroir pairing experimentation to the mix. Why are they different? Which flavors in the dish are brought out by each of the wines?

So I guess what I’m trying to say is that food and wine pairing is a life long journey upon which you will discover successes and failures. But that perfect pairing will knock your socks off once you find it. Until then, my advice is to drink a lot of wine because tasting is the only way to learn.

This is not information that can be learned from a book, it is about your personal experience and sensory memory. Granted there are certain lessons that can be learned from outside sources, which is why I will share any great lessons or pairings I come across on our blog. Especially with Christmas right around the corner…

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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