Tag Archive for 'California'

Bottle Shock and Judgement of Paris

Two new movies about the 1976 Paris tasting which Hollywood will not let the French forget. No doubt encouraged by the sleeper success of Sideways these new movies will probably not receive the same critical acclaim – judging by this article in the Toronto Globe and Mail by Beppi Crosariol.

Wine connoisseurs - I call them cons

BEPPI CROSARIOL
bcrosariol@globeandmail.com

July 23, 2008

It was the taste-off that turned wine upside down.

In 1976, an esteemed all-French jury gathered in Paris for a blind tasting to compare eight of France’s greatest wines against a dozen upstarts from California. In an upset worthy of Hollywood, the United States trounced France, winning top honours in both the red and white categories.

Now, Hollywood has finally found its way to the story. Not one but two films based on the so-called Judgment of Paris will duke it out for attention this year. Bottle Shock, a rollicking comedy-drama based on true events that stars Alan Rickman, opens in Toronto on Aug. 6 and is slated to roll out to theatres across the country later in the summer. The second film, Judgment of Paris, based on the official story by the only journalist to attend the Paris tasting, Time magazine’s George Taber, is due later this year.

The event’s significance has predictably been interpreted the same way ever since: California had vaulted its way into the wine stratosphere. True. But if there’s justice, the films will also be a reminder - in these boom times for wine snobbery - of a message far more overdue…..

Ending with…

……Ironically, Bottle Shock perpetuates that superhuman-taster myth even as the factual part of the story undermines it. In one pivotal, fictional scene, Gustavo, a Mexican-American cellar hand employed by Chateau Montelena, wows a crowded Napa barroom by identifying the legendary 1947 Cheval Blanc, a red Bordeaux, in an impromptu brown-bag challenge.

So, let me get this straight: A spunky American kid can nail the nuances of great French terroir in a blind tasting when an esteemed panel of seasoned European experts can’t?

Apparently, 32 years after French arrogance got its comeuppance in the Judgment of Paris, wine jingoism is alive and well and living in America.

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French to buy Chateau Montelena

Irony of ironies a French Chateau  is rumored to be buying the winery that startled the wine world in 1976 and which is the subject of a new movie soon to be released.

BERKELEY - Chateau Montelena, which shocked the wine world in 1976 when it beat French vintages in a famous Paris tasting, is expected to be sold, officials close to the deal said today. The buyer? The owner of a Bordeaux estate.

“This is the ultimate recognition, that the French are now buying these great California wineries,” said Jon Fredrikson, a wine industry consultant and publisher of the Gomberg-Fredrikson report which tracks wine shipments.

Company officials released a joint statement saying talks were in progress between Michel Reybier, owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux, and Chateau Montelena founder Jim Barrett for a sale, pending regulatory approval.

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Charbroiling and Wine Pairing

Now that we are in the midst of summertime grilling, it is important to be able to use your wine knowledge to select appropriate pairings for those charcoal scented meats tossed onto the flames.  What type of wine should you drink with bitter food?  The example I will use is Charbroiled lamb on a bed of wild arugula.  I have been getting bunches of wild arugula from the Farmer’s Market because it is such a great pair with anything you toss on the grill.  

The flavors in a dish like the one above are strong and need a wine match that will complement, and not enhance, the bitterness.  This type of charbroiled food will tend to accentuate the wine’s bitterness.  To avoid this type of pairing, pair this type of dish with a full bodied and fruit forward California wine (2006 Santa Barbara Winery Reserve Chardonnay, 2005 Santa Barbara Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, or any Napa Merlot).  

All of these wines are full of flavor and will stand up to their food pairing.  If the wine that you choose is too light to pair with a hearty and full flavored roast, it will not ruin your meal, but the wine’s flavors will barely even register on your palate.  

On a side note, while the Reserve Chardonnay would work with a Charbroiled lamb dish, I think it would be even better if you substituted a Charbroiled pork for the meat choice.
Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery 

 

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Summer Solstice Dinner Recap

Amidst a backdrop of State Street’s Tuesday evening Farmers’ Market, the Bistro dished out a five course meal paired with wines to celebrate summer solstice.  Executive Chef Josh Keating and Santa Barbara Winery Assistant Winemakers Ryan Ralston and Cameron Bendetsen were on hand to discuss the culinary and pairing choices between each course.  Following closely to the Solstice theme, each table had colorful masks in the middle as a playful decoration.  Two dimensional paper maiche pig heads hung from the ceiling and appeared to have been crafted at the Solstice workshop where floats and masks are made for Saturday’s parade.  

The setting sun provided natural light for most of the evening causing the floating jacaranda flowers to sparkle.  In celebration of solstice part of the proceeds from the dinner went to fun the annual event.  This was the perfect opportunity to recognize and sample new releases that we have available at Santa Barbara Winery and Lafond Winery.  Five of our most recent releases featured were the 2007 Pinot Gris, 2007 Rose of Syrah, 2006 Martin Rey Clone Pinot, 2005 Petite Sirah, and 2007 7.3 Riesling.

The first plates came out of the kitchen at 7:30.  Actually, the tapas size portion was served in a small convex glass (which tasting room associate Alan Shapton referred to as an “upside down lampshade glass”).  A Tiger Shrimp Ceviche with mango and ripe avocado was served with the 2007 Pinot Gris and was probably my favorite pairing of the night.  Mouthwatering tropical fruit and complementary acidity cleansed the palate for what was to come.  The fattiness of the avocado cut through the Pinot Gris’ racy acidity and also brought out elements of sweet fruit when put together with the mango.  

As Josh stood in front of his guests he began lightly tapping on his crystal wine glass with a fork to get everybody’s attention, while he quietly asked Ryan, “can we tap these glasses?”  Experts in their field, the three spoke of the food and wine individually and why they chose the pairing.  I learned that although Pinot Gris is a white wine, it has red skins, but it is always made into white wine because there is not enough pigmentation in the skins to produce a red.

Next out of the kitchen was a Saffron Bouillabaise and 2007 Rose of Syrah.  This pairing is typical in Provence where Rose’s reign king.  Marseilles is the port city in France where this stew started.  Fishermen would come into the harbor on their boats and throw them into the broth.  The seafood broth here was made with saffron and the fish that was dropped in was salmon, halibut, escolar and shelled mussels.  The hot soup with a cold Rose made it lighter than it would be if paired with a red wine.  The Rose of Syrah allowed the dish to shine through and was a beautiful magenta pink in the crystal stemware against the flickering candlelight.  

Lafond Winery’s newest Pinot Noir release is a Martin Ray clone, and it came out alongside a Seared Scallop Crusted Salad.  This was actually the first time it has been served to a public audience since its release last week.  The simple salad was made from earty organic greens and tossed with a mustard rice wine vinaigrette.  Three crusted scallops were placed softly on the bed of lettuce and provided a nice crunchy texture to the salad.  Again Josh played with the element of pairing hot and cold placing warm scallops on cool lettuce, which really brought forward the salads earthy flavors.

Pommard clones produce a more feminine style Pinot than the Dijon clone (which can be done in a more Syrah-esque style) this lighter style Pinot’s bright red fruit showcases this elegance.  Aged primarily in neutral oak, this Pinot is already showing particularly well.  Martin Ray was a winemaker up in the Santa Cruz mountains who toured France’s Burgundy region and suitcased this clone back to California in the 1940s.  He named it after himself, which Ryan applauded stating, “Hey, if you do something for the first time, name it after yourself.”

Leading up to the main course these three lighter dishes paved the way for Steak Filet Mignon and Petite Sirah.  A peach-sized Filet sat on a square ceramic plate presented with butter steamed carrots and green button squash.  Point Reyes Cheese and a Syrah reduction sauce were drizzled on top.  Petite Sirah’s stick to your lips, teeth staining quality was appropriately paired with a tender steak cut.  The enormous amount of pigmentation in the skin of these small berries make it a rich, deeply colored and tannic wine bursting with dry dark fruit flavors and a hint of spicy licorice. 

After all of this food it was not a surprise that the choice of dessert was more of a delightful cleansing palate refresher than a decadent sweet.  A sorbet was paired with our 7.3% residual sugar Riesling, touching on the sweet tooth but not overwhelming.  The 7.3 Riesling is the sweeter of our two Rieslings, but it has a nice acidity to balance that out.  

I was happy to be a part of this Solstice gathering…  

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Rose Moradian on Basil at the Bistro Organic Garden

Rose Moradian in the Bistro Restaurant & Wine Bar Blog  has written an article on Basil. Some of it gleamed from Wikipedia as well from research and experience. Her Bistro Garden is at the Lafond Vineyards. Rose’s garden grows more interesting as time goes on. Today she planted what she calls Mission Corn. The same variety planted by the Padres at the various California Missions in the 18th century. She writes…

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) of the Family Lamiaceae is also known as Albahaca, St. Joseph’s Wort, and Sweet Basil. It is a tender low-growing annual herb, originally native to tropical Asia. It grows to between twenty and sixty centimetres tall, with opposite, light green, silky leaves one and a half to five centimetres long and one to three centimetres broad.

It tastes somewhat like cloves, with a strong, pungent, sweet smell. Basil is very sensitive to cold, with best growth in hot, dry conditions.The word basil comes from the Greek âáóéëåõò, meaning “king”, as it is believed to have grown above the spot where St. Constantine and Helen discovered the Holy Cross. The Oxford English Dictionary quotes speculations that basil may have been used in “some royal unguent, bath, or medicine”…

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Humboldt Fog

One of the most interesting sandwiches on the Bistro’s Thursday evening Grilled Cheese menu is made using Humboldt Fog and pear.  These two ingredients melt together between a crispy sourdough bread casing.  Humboldt Fog is an American ripened (as opposed to fresh) goat’s milk cheese supposedly named for the local ocean fog which rolls in from Humboldt Bay, California (where it is produced by only one farm, Cypress Grove Chevre).  My favorite thing about this cheese is its distinctive layer cake-like appearance.  Its bright white color is split in half by a thin vein of black ash (not mold) and blanketed by a pillowy white mold rind.  It has a creamy, light, mildly acidic flavor and its contrasting moist texture is denser towards the center, gooier right beneath the rind.  A nicely balanced hint of saltiness and lemon kick goes great with the pear. Click image on the right for menu and hours.

The suggested wine pairing is a 1.7% residual sugar Riesling (2007 Santa Barbara Winery 1.7 Riesling), which translates as off-dry.  The high acidity of the wine cleanses and refreshes the palate between each bite while the sweetness contrasts nicely with the salty character of the soft cheese.  Pear’s grainy texture and stone fruit sweetness fits in perfectly to the mix.

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Bottling at Santa Barbara Winery

Bottling is no one’s favorite part of winemaking - but it could be the most satisfying. Getting the wine into bottles safely is a sort of accomplishment. It is not the end of the road — it still needs to get into the hands of the consumer.

Winemaker Bruce MaGuire this week bottled the last of our 2006 red wines. These were all bottled in the classical high shoulder Bordeaux bottle. Six wines, five of Italian origin and one, Cabernet Sauvignon, of French origin. They have all spent 16 to 18 months in 60 liter barrels and are being bottled without filtration.

2006 Joughin Vineyard Negrette
2006 Joughin Vineyard Primitivo
2006 Stolpman Vineyard Sangiovese
2006 Grassini Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Joughin Vineyard Lagrein
2006 Stolpman Vineyard Nebbiolo

The smallest bottling 260 cases and the largest 405 cases. Except for the Cabernet Sauvignon these are not produced widely in California. All the vineyards that Bruce has selected are in the Santa Ynez Valley in micro climates suitable for these varieties.
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