Riesling and rose (blush) wines are still recovering from tarnished reputations, courtesy of the flood of overproduced sweet, tasteless wines bottled under these labels in the 1970’s and 80’s. The market was flooded with low quality, out of whack sweetness, rieslings at low price points. Today, riesling producers in the United States are treating the noble varietal, more often than not, in a more serious (if you will) manner. The Riesling grape is swelling with potential flavors and aromatics. As seen in Austrian and German examples, its complexity and ability as a white wine to age, can be completely unmatched if produced well. It is a varietal that picks up nuances from the area it is grown (terroir) in a way that some may say is matched only by pinot noir.
Remembering all of the varietals and their characteristics is challenging enough, but then throw in the range of styles that can be found in a bottle of riesling. Their taste profile can range from dry to sweet, and currently the United States does not have any labelling laws to clarify to consumers what type of Riesling they are buying off the shelf. At Santa Barbara Winery we attempt to clarify the sweetness levels in our Rieslings by enlarging the font on the Residual Sugar content on the front label. Three different styles are bottled under the 2007 labels for Santa Barbara Winery Riesling – Dry, 1.7% (off-dry), and 7.3%).
The International Riesling Foundation (IRF) has completed a “Riesling Taste Profile” designed to make it easier for consumers to predict the taste they can expect from a particular bottle of Riesling.
The system involves voluntary technical guidelines for wine makers and winery owners in describing their wines for consumers; and four graphic options that may be used on a back label, point-of-sale materials, and elsewhere.
Riesling is the fastest growing white wine in the United States, and second only to Pinot Noir of any wine; yet market research has shown that many consumers think of Riesling only as “a sweet white wine” despite the wide range of tastes it can represent.
“Riesling may be made in many styles from bone dry to sweet, and this versatility can be both a strength and a weakness,” said California wine journalist Dan Berger who spearheaded the IRF project in consultation with many Riesling wine makers. “Riesling’s many styles can fit almost any taste preference, but consumers may be put off if they are expecting one taste and get another. The taste profile will enhance Riesling’s strength by letting consumers know the basic taste before they open or even buy the bottle.”
To help wine makers consider which terms to use for various wines, the committee developed a technical chart of parameters involving the interplay of sugar, acid, and pH which helps determine the probable taste profile of a particular wine.
Another key step in the project was to identify appropriate terms for describing the relative dryness or sweetness of the wine. After extensive deliberations, the four categories selected are: Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Sweet, and Sweet. (The technical guidelines for those categories are described below.)
“It is important to understand that these are simply recommended guidelines which we think may be helpful, but the program is entirely voluntary,” said Berger. “We hope that over time many Riesling producers will use the system because it will help consumers, and therefore help the wineries as well.”…
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My point is not to write off Riesling as a sweet wine, but rather experiment, and seek out the styles that you prefer, whether that be on the drier side of the scale or the sweeter.
Joanie Hudson, Director of National and International Marketing, Santa Barbara Winery / Lafond Winery & Vineyards
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