Archive for the 'Articles on Wine and Vineyards' Category

Pinot Noir Veraison at Lafond Vineyards

Published
by
Pierre
on August 1, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Vineyard and Wine News
. 0 Comments

Wikipedia has a very good description of the process which is both visual and physical…

Véraison is a French term, but has been adopted into the English literature on viticulture. The official definition of véraison is “change of color of the grape berries.” Véraison signifies the change from berry growth to berry ripening in grapevines.

Process:
Many changes occur at veraison. Grape berries follow a double sigmoid growth curve. The initial phase of berry growth is a result of cell division and cell expansion. As berry growth of phase I slows this is termed the Lag phase. The lag phase is not a physiological growth stage, but an artificial designation between the two growth periods of grape berry development.

Degradation of Malic acid results in a decrease of berry titratable acidity. Grapes also possess a small amount of citric acid, but Tartaric acid is another dominant acid. Tartrate accumulates early in phase I of berry growth, while Malic acid accumulates at the end of phase berry growth.

Accumulation of hexose sugars (sucrose, fructose) is associated with the development of xylem cell discontinuities. The deposition of sugar into the berry depends on the level of leaf photosynthesis, the number of competing sinks on the vine and sugar importation. Herbaceous aromas are degraded. It is unknown whether the degradation of herbaceous aromas allows fruit aromas to be detected, or if fruity aromas develop later in berry ripening.

The berry also changes in color. Presumably chlorophyll is broken down. In White cultivars carotenoids are formed, while in red cultivars anthocyanins and xanthophylls are formed. The trigger of veraison is unknown, but veraison signifies the seed reaching maturity. However, seed maturity is unlikely to cause as seedless berries also proceed through veraison.

 

At the beginning of véraison we need to cover the vines with netting since birds seem particularly fond of Pinot Noir.

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Old Spanish Days Menu at The Bistro

Published
by
joanie
on July 25, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards, Chardonnay, Joanie Hudson, Lafond Winery, Pinot Gris, Restaurant News, Riesling, Santa Barbara Winery, Sauvignon Blanc and Wine and Food Pairing
. 0 Comments

In celebration of the 84th Old Spanish Days Fiesta, The Bistro will have a special Spanish-themed menu next weekend (Wednesday, July 30- Sunday, August 3).  I just took a peek at it, and it looks delicious!  One of the best things about the menu is the wide selection of dishes that will be available.  It is not just two or three specials, but rather an entire menu.  

Traditional recipes cover a lot of bases in terms of Spanish cuisine - from chilled Gazpacho Verde, Ceviche, Chicken Pasole, Shrimp Tamales, Sea Bass Tacos, Pulled Chicken Tortas, and Filet Mignon Enchiladas.  Chorizo, cilantro, and queso are scattered like confetti as reappearing ingredients in menu descriptions.  

The full wine list of Santa Barbara Winery and Lafond Winery will be available.  Spanish dishes call for a little bit of caution when selecting a wine pairing, but the right choice can enhance both the wine and food (like any good pairing should).  Spicy foods call for slightly sweet or fruity wines with little to no tannin.  I would pair any of our white wines with most of the featured items, but would be selective if leaning towards a red.  

Thinking back to The Bistro’s Solstice Wine Pairing dinner, the 2007 Santa Barbara Winery Pinot Gris with the Shrimp Ceviche was my favorite pairing of the night, as well as the most successful in terms of balance. Three wines that would be consistently good with most of the dishes would be the 2007 Santa Barbara Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling 1.7, and Pinot Gris.  

All are light, refreshing, and fruity.  The Riesling is nice with spicier dishes because of the small amount of residual sugar.  Filet Mignon Enchiladas would be good with either the Riesling or 2005 Santa Barbara Winery Sangiovese.  Cesar’s Chicken Salad would be good with either of the 2006 Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnays (Reserve or Color Label).  

Tacos Al Pastor (Marinated Shaved Pork tacos with Pineapple, Cilantro and Onions Served with Black Beans and Corn Rice with Pasilla Chiles and Queso Anejo) would go well with the Riesling because of the sweetness of the marinated pork and the pineapple.  

The Fiesta Breakfast menu features similar bright flavors.  Huevos Con Chorizo, Chile Verde (Slow Roasted Pork in Green Salsa with Poached Eggs, Avocado, and Black Beans), and Calixto’s Thick Cut French Toast with Fresh Strawberries are a few highlights.  Omelet lovers can order the Oaxacan Vegetable Omelet (Mushrooms, Calabasas Squash, Spinach, Pasilla Peppers and melted Queso).  

See the full menu at pierrelafond.com.

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Bottle Shock and Judgement of Paris

Published
by
Pierre
on July 24, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards, Wine News and Winery News
. 1 Comment

Two new movies about the 1976 Paris tasting which Hollywood will not let the French forget. No doubt encouraged by the sleeper success of Sideways these new movies will probably not receive the same critical acclaim – judging by this article in the Toronto Globe and Mail by Beppi Crosariol.

Wine connoisseurs - I call them cons

BEPPI CROSARIOL
bcrosariol@globeandmail.com

July 23, 2008

It was the taste-off that turned wine upside down.

In 1976, an esteemed all-French jury gathered in Paris for a blind tasting to compare eight of France’s greatest wines against a dozen upstarts from California. In an upset worthy of Hollywood, the United States trounced France, winning top honours in both the red and white categories.

Now, Hollywood has finally found its way to the story. Not one but two films based on the so-called Judgment of Paris will duke it out for attention this year. Bottle Shock, a rollicking comedy-drama based on true events that stars Alan Rickman, opens in Toronto on Aug. 6 and is slated to roll out to theatres across the country later in the summer. The second film, Judgment of Paris, based on the official story by the only journalist to attend the Paris tasting, Time magazine’s George Taber, is due later this year.

The event’s significance has predictably been interpreted the same way ever since: California had vaulted its way into the wine stratosphere. True. But if there’s justice, the films will also be a reminder - in these boom times for wine snobbery - of a message far more overdue…..

Ending with…

……Ironically, Bottle Shock perpetuates that superhuman-taster myth even as the factual part of the story undermines it. In one pivotal, fictional scene, Gustavo, a Mexican-American cellar hand employed by Chateau Montelena, wows a crowded Napa barroom by identifying the legendary 1947 Cheval Blanc, a red Bordeaux, in an impromptu brown-bag challenge.

So, let me get this straight: A spunky American kid can nail the nuances of great French terroir in a blind tasting when an esteemed panel of seasoned European experts can’t?

Apparently, 32 years after French arrogance got its comeuppance in the Judgment of Paris, wine jingoism is alive and well and living in America.

To read full article:

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French to buy Chateau Montelena

Published
by
Pierre
on July 23, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards and Wine News
. 0 Comments

Irony of ironies a French Chateau  is rumored to be buying the winery that startled the wine world in 1976 and which is the subject of a new movie soon to be released.

BERKELEY - Chateau Montelena, which shocked the wine world in 1976 when it beat French vintages in a famous Paris tasting, is expected to be sold, officials close to the deal said today. The buyer? The owner of a Bordeaux estate.

“This is the ultimate recognition, that the French are now buying these great California wineries,” said Jon Fredrikson, a wine industry consultant and publisher of the Gomberg-Fredrikson report which tracks wine shipments.

Company officials released a joint statement saying talks were in progress between Michel Reybier, owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux, and Chateau Montelena founder Jim Barrett for a sale, pending regulatory approval.

To view full article:

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2006 Lafond Pinot Noir Martin Ray Clone

Published
by
joanie
on July 20, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards, Joanie Hudson, Lafond Winery, New Releases and Pinot Noir
. 0 Comments

We have a relatively new release here in the tasting room, and it has quickly become one of my favorites.  It is the 2006 Lafond Martin Ray Clone Pinot Noir.  The highest quality fruit (exclusively Martin Ray Clone Pinot Noir) has been selected to be included in this bottling.

Lafond Vineyard is home to eight Pinot Noir clones, all of which have their own unique character and flavor profile.  Bruce McGuire has produced this small batch of Martin Ray clonal designate Pinot Noir from a specific 25-acre block of the vineyard that was planted 24 years ago.  The wine was aged in 100% French Burgundy Oak barrels for about 10 months, during which its complexity was enhanced. 

The structure and depth of flavor makes this Pinot Noir a nice match with savory foods such as lamb, Copper River salmon, and hearty mushroom dishes. I have had it recently paired with crusty herbed flatbread, baked zucchini flowers (a beautiful summer seasonal vegetable), and tender grilled lamb. Enjoy it now through 2014.  Only 174 cases were produced. Price: 48.00/750ml

To order:

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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New Release Santa Barbara Winery 2005 Joughin Vineyard Lagrein

Published
by
Pierre
on July 16, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards, Lagrein, New Releases, Santa Barbara Winery and Wine News
. 1 Comment

2005 Joughin Vineyard Lagrein
Lagrein is one of the indigenous grapes grown around the town of Bolzano in the Alto Adige; Italy’s northern most wine growing region. Locally known for its big, rich tannins and very dark color, this is a remarkable food wine.

The key is a richness of fruit character, instead of hard tannins that delights and surprises the mouth at the same time. This grape yields the darkest, most saturated wine we haveve experienced, remarked Winemaker Bruce McGuire. Mr. Andrew Joughin, who also happens to be the vineyard manager at our Lafond Vineyard, planted the Joughin Vineyard.

It was his idea to look for unusual grape varieties from around the world that would be suitable for his soils and Los Olivos climate. Of course Winemaker Bruce McGuire was happy to offer some suggestions that would also add to the wide variety of wines he makes for Santa Barbara Winery. The harvest of 2005 gave up yields that made Mr. Joughin smile.

The seven tons from this four acre section gave us a fruit forward, lush wine. Pair with angel hair pasta in a light tomato garlic sauce to much heartier foods. This is also a great wine to taste with cheeses such as Brie, Camembert, Fontina, semi-hard Gouda, or your own selection in the fresh goat’s milk catagory. This wine should age nicely through 2010.
Suggested retail: 30.00/750ml
To order:

 

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Cork and the Environment

Published
by
Pierre
on July 9, 2008
in Articles on Wine and Vineyards and Wine News
. 0 Comments

The Audubon Magazine has an article, ‘Cork Screwed‘, on the environmental damage caused by the increasing use and acceptance of screw caps and other artificial closers found on many of today’s wines. Cork forests are important in preserving the Mediterranean ecosystem. These are very large forests which are home to many species of birds and animals, many of which are endangered.

Farming cork has never been a job for the impatient. The earliest age at which a tree can be stripped is 25; a second stripping comes 9 or 10 years later. Pale and highly corrugated, the cork from these first 35 years of bark production can be used in flooring or other lower-revenue products, but it’s not until a tree is 43 to 50 that it will start yielding wine-quality cork. Thereafter it can be stripped every 9 to 12 years for the next century and a half…

To read this very interesting article which describes both the farming and harvesting of cork as well as its importance in the ecosystem go to ’Cork Screwed‘. 

 

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