Author Archive for Pierre Lafond

Off Beat Reds from Santa Barbara Winery

Winemaker Bruce McGuire Tests Terroir 

The Santa Ynez Valley’s extended growing season has turned out some fabulous gems, especially from the 2005 vintage which is ready for its close up.  Early bud break and a long swing on the vine translated into a rich, supple Pinot Noir and ripe, concentrated Chardonnay — tenets the appellation has long been known for.

What many wine enthusiasts aren’t aware of are the cache of offbeat wines crafted from this appellation.  Winemaker Bruce McGuire’s passion for unsung gems is well documented; in any given year he creates 30+ wines from one harvest, ranging from Nebbiolo to Rose of Syrah, Negrette, White Riesling and Grenache.

McGuire’s eye to determining which varietals will thrive in this region has turned out some exquisite wines.  Much like chess, it’s an intellectually stimulating exercise to introduce obscure grapes from other parts of the world and adapt them to the Santa Barbara landscape – and American palate. These non-traditional varietals require both talent and tenacity, which McGuire has proven since joining the winery in 1981.

Crated in small lots, two of Santa Barbara Winery’s most unique reds are featured below. For a full list go to Santa Barbara Winery.

2005 Santa Barbara Winery Primitivo ($23)

Twelve miles east of Lafond Vineyards in Los Olivos, Joughin Vineyard proved the perfect spot for this varietal, named after the Primitivo vines grown in the Pulgia region of Italy, and now known to be genetically identical to Zinfandel. This sultry wine represents the region’s warmer climate with a fruit-forward nose, plump brambleberry and spicy black pepper overtones. The 2005 vintage offer high yields and extended barrel time (16 months) in French/American oak added to the wine’s pronounced length and density. A definite date with Mr. Lambshank, this wine also pairs well with Italian foods such as Tuscan beef and linguine marinara and a wide range of cheeses. $23.00/750 ml.

2005 Santa Barbara Winery Grenache ($22).

This Southern Rhone varietal from Lafond Vineyards in the Sta. Hills AVA is ready for its close up. Long known as a blending grape, its low yields of the 2005 vintage (5 tons from 2 acres) produced a plump, meaty wine with bright acidity and smoky bacon and spicy oak overtones. Planted in the warmest swath of Lafond’s cool-climate vineyard, McGuire believes this grape has great potential as a stand-alone vintage best served with pizza, spicy Indian or Thai or a thick rib eye on the barbeque. $22.00/750ml

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The Millenial Generation

The good news just keeps coming. Not too long ago we learnt that wine consumption had doubled, or was it tripled, at NASCAR events and now we learn that for the ‘Millenial’ generation, 21-30, it is the beverage of choice for 27% and growing.

Tim Teichgraeber for decanter.com writes

Wine is gaining ground on beer as the drink of choice for young Americans, a Nielsen survey has found.

The so-called ‘Millenial’ generation still shows an overall preference for beer, which is still most often cited as the ‘favorite’ alcoholic drink, but wine and spirits are both gaining ground.

There is a slight preference for red wine (51%) – mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. In white Chardonnay still reigns.

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New Release Lafond Winery 2006 SRH Chardonnay

Located in the western Santa Ynez Valley, the Santa Rita Hills AVA is an ideal environment for growing intensely flavored full-bodied Chardonnay.
The AVA is distinguished by the very cool and long growing season created by a convergence of unusual geography in this part of California. Our southerly latitude means that frost danger is usually behind us in February of most years.

This leads to early bud break, which can start the growing season as much as a month earlier than growing regions to our North. During the summer, heat rising from the Mojave Desert 90 miles inland and the eastern boundary of our unique east-west system of mountains and valleys draws in cold air from the Pacific Ocean 15 miles to our West.

This guarantees cool days and chilly nights during the long growing season of the nine-mile length of the Santa Rita Hills AVA.

A blend of four neighboring vineyards, the 2006 Chardonnay SRH is winemaker Bruce McGuire’s selection to showcase the ripe, concentrated Chardonnay for which the Santa Rita Hills is known. Bruce had each vineyard block picked as the fruit ripened about three weeks later than average to the late date of Nov. 5th.

This wine is a good choice to pair with many cows’ milk cheeses such as Brie or Camembert and, as a nice surprise; the fantastic washed-rind triple-creme Cow Girl Creamery Red Hawk. Richer foods such as roast chicken or whole, farm raised striped bass are also ideal pairings.

This bottling will reward aging through 2012 and promises to be quite showy through 2116.

Suggested retail price 22.00

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Fall in the Vineyard, Friday November 23, 2007

These photos were taken Friday, the day after Thanksgiving. Although the harvest finished more than a week ago we will be pressing grapes for another 2 to 3 weeks. These are wines that are being kept with the skins from 4 to 6 weeks after the end of fermentation. Small lots that winemaker Bruce McGuire thinks will benefit from extended contact.

Winemakers call this extended maceration. The decision to press is by taste. The astringent flavors after fermentation are in the forward part of the mouth — the decision to press is when the astringency softens and is felt at the back of the mouth. Not all wines benefit from extended maceration, those that do, are more complex, darker and richer.

Click images to enlarge:

 

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Mountain Drive Wine Stomp Part II

A follow-up of the Mountain Drive Wine Stomp. Mountain Drivers pressing and barreling their Lafond Vineyard Syrah. A slow process — the press capacity is on the small side — the basket press is very gentle and with care and ageing the wine will turn out OK. Click the photo of the Mountain Drive Picking Crew to enlarge. Lafond Winery does not encourage child labor — but hey!

David Lafond can be seen in the second picture – on the left of the red jacketed Press Master.

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End of Harvest at Lafond Winery and Vineyards

Last Thursday was the end of harvest. The picking is done but not the fermentation and pressing. The end of picking is always a major crossing — the grapes are in and now the serious part — the winemaking begins. We celebrate all sorts of beginnings and ends — usually with a BBQ — and this was no exception. We were not able to get all the pickers — many had gone home — but we managed to get the permanent crew.

Among the group are — Winemaker Bruce Mcguire, Vineyard manager Andy Joughin, Foreman Enrique Solozano, Tasting Room Manager Mirella Valdez, who organized the event — David Lafond was on the other end of the camera.

By the way, Bruce is very pleased about the harvest — there were some anxious moments – that we would not get full ripeness with some varieties before the rains – but his policy of wait and wait some more paid off.

Click group picture to enlarge:

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New Release Lafond Winery 2005 Lafond Vineyard Chardonnay

This limited bottling of Chardonnay is grown in a two acre, low vigor section of the Lafond Vineyard’s 6 acre Wente Clone Block that was planted in 1976.
The age of the vines and the difficult growing conditions (low nutrient marine sand and gravel that retains very little water) combined with one of the world’s best micro-climates for Chardonnay sets the stage for a powerful expression of depth and fruit intensity.

The grapes were picked on September 30, just over two weeks later than average. 2005 was finally a harvest of bountiful grape yields and we able to harvest a more normal amount of fruit from this vineyard section where yields are always meager.

Not only is this a vineyard selection, but it is also winemaker Bruce McGuire’s selection of barrels showing the greatest flavor intensity from our Wente Clone Block. The wine was aged 10 months in eleven barrels, uncracked and sur lees. Chardonnay showing the depth and richness of this wine is a special treat with rich foods such as pork roast, lobster or salmon. Also try it as an appetite inducing pre-meal delicacy.
This wine should show full development in 2009 and be a delight through 2011.
261 cases produced. Retail 40.00(750ml) To order

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