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Cameron on the 2008 Harvest at Santa Barbara Winery

Thursday the 25th of September the urban harvest crew received the largest tonnage of grapes for the season. The grapes were Sauvignon Blanc from the Jack Mcginley vineyard, formerly called the Westerly vineyard. Ryan Ralston, the assistant winemaker for Santa Barbara Winery and Lafond Winery wines has a pension for creating Sauvignon Blanc with balanced, rounded tropical fruit flavors, little astringency and crisp finish.
“The key to having great California Sauvignon Blanc is allowing mother nature to exude its full effects on the grape. To do so the winemaker and vineyard manager must have some faith in the sometimes fickle California climate and let the grapes hang until peak ripeness is achieved.”

Anything less would be uncivilized and add bitter, grassy and sometimes harsh poly phenols and phenolics to the wine.

Photo above shows whole-cluster grapes dropping into the press from the conveyor. The stems provide channels for the juice during the press cycle. The grapes enter the press undamaged.

The bottom photo is of juice being extracted through the press. The press has a large bladder which on being expanded by air, like a giant balloon, gently pushes the grapes against the wall of the press and its screen.

Cameron Bendetsen, Sata Barbara Winery

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Ode to Harvest

Ode to Harvest by Rose Moradian

Too much is never enough, I suppose. The golden light, the green to yellow, the purple heliotrope peeping thru the white picket fence at the end of the day. The noble faces of the sunflowers nod downwards to the soil to where they sink the seeds, to be revived or eaten by the birds, either way, it is all a part of the cycle. This is everlasting, this cycle. This is where life begins and ends, every day, year, and decade.

The heart shaped leaves, the triumvirate cross harvesting the opal grapes, deliciously sweetening with every drop of the suns ray. The shadows grow long; the silken stalks of Indian corn braid and the hulls shrivel to a silhouette, the lily ponds erupt in a blue explosion of lotuses, the birds spend their vacations south.

The rolls of hay and oats bounce with the anticipation of the October quarter, yet it is all very calm as the tadpoles snatch at the mosquitoes, the frogs rival one another in a chorus of madness and the owls march along the rows deftly enjoying the buffet of rodents.

The ponds pebbles slathered with ancient algae, dried and bleached like a horses tail, hides a haven of salamanders and the sandstone boulders that have built heat all day slowly release the diurnal fixation
into the ever clear soft and sweet night.

Never has a rosé tasted or smelled so dry and vernal as today, with solar fusion cascading thru the glass as it is held to the sunset sky, the beading of moist pearls like fog appearing with the onset of the suns good bye, golden red and begging to be drunk right now. This is it, this is the moment, and this is the finest hour before the harvest begins.

The scythes and coronas all working together, brass and brown, snip of this and a snap of that, falling to the ground in a surrender to the soil, and sacrifice to the grape. The work of the terrain is done, it is all heaven from here, acceptance of the holy heated sun soaring high like the buzzards that eat the remains of the dead, casting a shadow of elsewhere on the adobe known as the growing grounds.

It is on the honor of the earth that we bring upon ourselves this hard work. It is a necessary region of cerebral activity, the marriage of sweat and history, knowledge and skill, and endless bounties of satisfaction, this work of single-minded artistry labelled enology. This sweet perspiration is in anticipation of the calling of the sugars, the tannins of taste, the skins of inebriation, the stems of legs.

This harmony of nature echoes in joy, the readiness of a virgin at the wedding altar for her beloved these grapes to be picked with tender tactility, the firm pluck of a boy and the kindness of a man, simple in nature, profound in duty with the acceptance of honor, paid in due by the patience of time. Lighted with the efforts of last year’s bounty, lift the chalice high and enjoy the mighty! Written by Rose Keppler~Moradian September Third, 2006.

Rose Keppler-Moradian Gardener/Poet

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View of Lafond Vineyard in September

Photo taken September 19, 2008, before harvest. The vines are beginning to stress as the grapes ripen. Harvest, in this block, will probably begin within the next two weeks. This photo does not include the Martin Ray Pinot Noir block mentioned in the previous blog.

The Lafond Winery is in the distance just below the hills.

Click image to enlarge:

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The Nets are Coming Off the Pinot Noir

This is our first picking of Pinot Noir this year. Winemaker, Bruce McGuire, assures me that although late it is not the latest. We once started picking Pinot Noir the first of October.

This is our oldest block of Pinot Noir, planted in the early eighties, on its own rootstock and in 12′ foot rows. The clone is Martin Ray named after one of, if not the pioneer of Pinot Noir in California. We have re-planted most of our old blocks and we will probably do this one as well, eventually, but what saves it, for the time being, is the quality of the fruit. We have an excellent limited production Martin Ray 2006 Pinot Noir in our current listings.

The first photo shows the fruit and you will notice it is on two levels. In our newer planting the fruit is all on one level for better exposure and better control of the canopy. The canopy, through photsynthesis, ripens the fruit.

The second photo is of workers removing the nets. As anyone, who has netted their plants knows, removing nets is much more difficult than applying them.


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Orange Muscat at Santa Barbara Winery

2008 Harvest

Due to circumstances created by mother nature leading up to the 2008 grape harvest, we at the winery searched far and wide to find quality grapes to fill our barrels. One such find was Orange Muscat.

Tuesday September 16th the first batch of Orange Muscat arrived from the Karry/Mosby vineyard in Santa Ynez. We received 4.16 tons of this curiously delicious grape varietal. Upon sampling the fruit, I was immediately taken back by the layers of sweetness unleashing on my palate. Ryan Ralston the assistant winemaker noted that the “candy” had arrived.

The flavor profile of the grape ranges from grilled pineapple covered in brown sugar to sweet peaches. The pressed juice was similar to a sugar fortified sweet tea. The Orange Muscats destiny is still yet to be determined; it could become an off-dry wine for warm summer nights or it could undergo full fermentation in ordered to process out all of the residual sugars and become yet one more delicious dry white wine in the Santa Barbara Winery line-up.

To find out….Keep reading and drink up!
Cameron Bendetsen, Santa Barbara Winery

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Harvest 2008 at Santa Barbara Winery

Racking Sauvignon Blanc

Racking is the process in which a wine maker removes the settled solids from the clean juice or wine. The idea behind racking is to clean up the wine by removing settled particulates from the bulk of the wine.

With our Sauvignon Blanc, racking is done after cold settling. This is much like chilling orange juice is your fridge until the pulp settles to the bottom and then pouring off the top liquid. The result is a visually and chemically cleaner product.

 

 

Camereon Bendetsen, Santa Barbara Winery

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Harvest 2008 at Santa Barbara Winery

Camereon Bendetsen on the harvest

Saturday September 6th marked the beginning of the 2008 Santa Barbara Winery urban harvest. The inaugural fruit came from the Grassini Vineyard located in the Happy Canyon area in the eastern most section of Santa Ynez. This soon to be appellation is on average ten degrees warmer than the rest of the Santa Ynez Valley.

The warm weather, coupled with little ocean influence makes the vineyards of Happy Canyon ideal for growing Bordeaux varietals like Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec. The Fruit came down on a flatbed goose-neck trailer in eight food grade picking bins pulled by a one-ton diesel truck down the 101 south. The 154 can be a bit treacherous with a large payload and spilling grapes on the freeway is not an option.

Typically, eight picking bins will yield approximately four tons. This year however, we received 2.75 tons. The small yield was primarily due to an uncharacteristic frost at the beginning of fruit set. The tonnage per acre worked out to about 1.5 tons/acre, which is very low especially for a vineyard planted with 6′x3′ spacing. The upside to a low yield is high quality.

When the vineyard is packed full of grapes uniform ripening throughout the vines can become compromised. This compromise is due to layers of grapes shading the rest of the vine. Consequently, low yields will ensure that all fruit clusters are exposed to the proper amount of sunlight essential for ripening and the Grassini Sauvignon Blanc was no exception.

With a few shifts of the forklift, the gapes rode up the sorting belt and into our press. The urban harvest had begun. The Brix came in at 24.9 with a 3.3 pH; perfect for the non-grassy, slightly tropical Sauvignon Blanc that assistant winemaker Ryan Ralston strives to create. Head Winemaker, Bruce McGuire felt that the Grassini Sauvignon Blanc will play an essential role in the overall flavor profile and balance of the 2008 Santa Barbara Winery Sauvignon Blanc and will continue to be a vineyard that will play a key role for years to come.

Camereon Bendetsen, Cellar Production Technician, Santa Barbara Winery.

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