Archive for February, 2008

Riesling Tasting

 Our first white wine focused tasting was Riesling, known to be a versatile wine for pairing because of its balance of sugar and acidity.  Their lighter weight, a result of fermentation in stainless steel tanks, and mouthwatering acidity just beg to be balanced by food.  It is seldom oaked, usually not blended and highly terroir expressive.  In other words, it is representative of the region it was grown in.  It does well in cooler climate vineyards with longer growing seasons, allowing the grape’s acidity to develop to its full potential. 

The best part of our tasting last night (aside from the multiple bottles of Riesling we shared) was listening to everybody try to pronounce the six different German names for classifying this wine on a scale from dry to sweet.  But enough about the German language… Riesling is one of the few wines that can stand up to food with a kick.  Its sharp acidity and pleasant sweetness serve as a nice balance to slightly spicy fare.  Riesling pairings are a prime example for which you can disregard the “white wine with fish, red wine with red meat” rule.  This delicate white is a perfect match for something like a Beef Satay with Peanut sauce.  Spices and sauces should really be the main factor in determining a wine match.

The majority of our Rieslings came from Germany and California.  I brought an Alsatian, which really is the only appelation in France where Riesling is produced.  German Rieslings are typically on the sweeter side while Alsation tends to lean more towards the dry.  Two of our most popular Rieslings were from the German producer, Kerpen. 

I really enjoyed this tasting because it taught me a lot of about balance in wines.  It is easy to tell a good Riesling from a flawed one, and it was interesting to highlight why each Riesling was either out of balance or seamlessly integrated.  For example, a Riesling can be called out of balance if it is perceived as too sweet.  Yet, you can have a sweet Riesling and not be overwhelmed by that characteristic if it is balanced by alcohol and acidity.  It can be sweet and not be cloying, this is the key to determining the quality of the wine.

There are so many different styles of Riesling, how do you choose one you will like?  That’s why tastings like this are so useful for me.  I was able to discover, not only which wine I liked best, but the type of Riesling that I prefer to drink.  Now I will know what to look for when I am in the store or at a winery.  I prefer the light, crisp, dry to off-dry Rieslings with cleansing acidity.  That acidity is key for me since I probably would not drink this wine without food. 

Rieslings age well because of their naturally high acidity and sugar content.  In proper cellaring conditions if structured and well-made the wine can be aged between 10 and 20 years.  This is uncommon for a white wine.  They can also acquire a Petrol nose over time (smells like rubber or tar on the Santa Barbara shoreline).  This is not necessarily a flaw and can be a sought after quality in the wine. 

Good pairings with Riesling are sweet slow-roasted pork, sushi, Thai food, peanut sauces, Jalepeno cornbread, Sauerkraut, white fish, and Macaroni and Cheese (yup!).  Smoked Gouda, Bleu Cheese, and Parmesan are great cheese pairings.  We had a Bleu Cheese plate with a Miso Teriaki Reduction drizzled over it.

Do a tasting and find out the kind of Riesling you prefer to drink.  Take simple notes on why you like it, then you will know what to look for.  A well regarded wine can be great, but if you don’t enjoy drinking it, why would you?

Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery

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Santa Barbara Winery New Release

Santa Barbara Winery
Santa Ynez Valley 2007 Riesling 1.7

The nobel grape Riesling is enjoying a well earned resurgence of popularity in America as increasing numbers of writers and chefs become enamored with the wine’s flavors and suitability for pairing with a wide range of foods.

Peer through the fog of history and remember Riesling was really one of the first grapes that showed the promise of the Santa Ynez Valley for fine wine growing back in the middle 1970’s. Pierre Lafond planted the first block of Riesling in our Lafond Vineyard in 1972 and winemaker Bruce McGuire has crafted several styles of this wine since his arrival to finish the 1981 harvest.

Recognizing that residual sugar (r.s.) marks the style of each Riesling we produce, either the word “dry” or a number representing the amount of r.s. in the wine appears on the label under the AVA designation.

The amount of r.s. in each style may vary slightly from year to year as Bruce balances this sweetness with the natural acid level that a particlar vintage achieved. The “1.7″ style happens to be the most versatile style of Riesling we make.

Very good for sipping by itself on a warm day (though we would have a plate of light cheeses and nectarines handy) it is also a great choice for Pacific Rim cusine featuring spicy curry, much of the cuisine from India, and pork sausages, especially when served with a German sensibility.

Because of the firm acidity, our Riesling also rewards ten years of aging to gain that special “aged character” good Riesling attains.

Suggested retail 18.00/750ml

To order:

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Amgen Bike Tour

The Amgen Bike Tour went through the wine country. We caught up to them in Montecito. This picture was taken by Kelly Petersen outside Wendy Foster Clothing in Montecito. Click to enlarge.

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Santa Barbara Winery 2007 Rosé of Syrah

The image shows the bottle as it passes the corker. The Rosé of Syrah and the Riesling are the first to be bottled. The wines are not barrel aged and are ready for bottling once they have settled and become cold stable. Cold stabilization is done by chilling the wine to about 30F and waiting for the tartrates to drop out. The process of cold stabilization will take from two to three weeks.

Wikipedia has very good article on tartaric acid and, surprisingly, although mostly found in grapes, it is also in bananas.

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Paso Robles Wine Tasting

One of my favorite aspects of the wine industry is how the business and its product really takes on the personality of its owners and employees.  There is so much passion and hard work that is manifested in a bottle of wine and it all begins in the vineyard. 

I went tasting up in Paso Robles this past weekend and looking back cannot believe how different every winery that I visited was.  And I’m not just referring to the wines, because that is only one aspect of the wine tasting experience.  I noticed this especially with the smaller wineries, such as Dover Canyon and Linne Calodo.  Their limited production and small facilities really make you feel close to winemaking process from grape to bottle.  The tasting room at Dover Canyon is right outside the front door of the winemaker’s home.  Talk about a commute.

Mary Baker, who is the co-owner and General Manager of Dover Canyon, had a particularly attractive aspect of her tasting menu.  At the end of the list we had a Dessert Viognier accompanied by macadamia nut brownies.  She had crafted the recipe to match perfectly with the wine.  There was an element of citrus in both that seamlessly linked them together.  Also the nuttiness of the macadamia was a really nice complement to the fuller bodied nature of the Viognier.  I really enjoyed the intimacy of this tasting room, which was further enhanced by the effort that was made to bring the taster into a very welcoming environment with home baked brownies.

You can see more of her recipes in her cookbook, ‘Fresh from Dover Canyon’.

 Joanie Hudson, Assistant Tasting Room Manager, Santa Barbara Winery.

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Bottling Santa Barbara Winery 2007 Riesling

Our first bottling since harvest. We bottled two Rieslings, one with 1.7 percent residual sugar and the other with 7.4 percent. The sweetness is arrived, not by sweetening, but by stopping fermentation by dropping the temperature to 30F. This is not so difficult as the wines are fermented at 45F.

In addition to these two Rieslings we are aging in barrels a small lot of Riesling to be completely dry. This wine will be bottled this coming summer.

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Spring in the Vineyard

Today it felt like Spring. After several weeks of rain the Sky was clear and the day was warm. We should see budding in the Pinot Noir by late February. We had a very small harvest in 2007 due to an early frost which damaged the vines. With the ample rain we have had this winter we would normally be expecting a better than normal harvest this year.

The problem is that this years clusters were formed last spring and they may have been damaged by that frost. David Lafond, who is our bean counter — our cluster counter – predicts fewer clusters but larger than normal. The vines attempt to balance production and vigor.

We saw the first Poppy of the year which is always a good sign that Spring is not far behind. Here is a view of the vineyard today — still bleak — but the hills are green.

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