Archive for December, 2007

The Ultimate Holiday Decorations

This is a truly spectacular effort. Light and music theatre. We can only guess at the carbon footprint and certainly not something we would recommend. There is no information as to where the house is located.

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Santa Barbara Winery Santa Rita Hills Grenache

Chris Knap writes — that Bruce McGuire’s experiment with Grenache pays big dividends.

Tuesday, December 20, 2007

Chris Knap Wine Columnist
The Orange County Register


When Alexis Lichine wrote his definitive “Guide to the Wines and Vineyards of France” in 1979, the southern Rhone village of Gigondas, purveyor of one of the best Grenaches in the world, rated less than a single paragraph.
When Robert M. Parker released the second edition of his “Wines of the Rhone Valley” in 1997, Gigondas got more than 50 pages.Between those two observations lies a whole book about the waning influence of Bordeaux and Burgundy, the influential palates of the late 20th century and the brash new influences that have turned the wine world on its head.

For our purposes here, suffice it to say that many sophisticated wine lovers (and wine makers) now prize a grape that was once considered a footnote fit for the back of the book.

 So it is with Bruce McGuire, winemaker for Santa Barbara Winery. McGuire planted two acres of Grenache in the warmest part of owner Pierre Lafond’s Santa Rita Hills vineyard, still a cool site for this warm-weather grape.The grapes for this second bottling from that planting were picked in early October and the wine aged in used Hungarian oak barrels.The wine is at once soft and powerful, with a nose of cedar and dark berries and flavors of cherry, raspberry and blackberry with notes of briar on the finish.
Tannins are sharp on first opening but fade as the wine gets oxygen and becomes much smoother and subtler.
I expect it will continue to improve for at least two years.The wine’s power is belied by its voluptuousness. I suspected the alcohol was high, but when I checked the label I was stunned to see it was 15.7 percent.In his book Parker calls Gigondas “a robust, chewy, full-bodied, rich, generous red wine … (with) muscular, unbridled power that is fine-tuned in the best examples.”
To my taste McGuire has managed a similar trick here.
Try it with Provencal-style beef stew or any rich, meaty meal on a cold winter’s night.

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New Release Lafond Winery 2006 SRH Pinot Noir

Rising in the middle of the western Santa Ynez Valley, the SantaRita Hills are the distinguishing feature of our AVA, home of Lafond Vineyard and a wonderful area to grow Pinot Noir. The long, very cool growing season of this area is exemplified by February budbreak and September harvest, a long period for vine physiology.

We feel this long growing season is what imparts the complexity of flavor and fruit intensity to our Pinot Noir A tremendous amount of effort has gone into fine tuning the vineyard to coax this fickle grape into producing the exotic, elusive flavors only pampered Pinot Noir will reveal.

Winemaker Bruce McGuire chooses very specific sites in the vineyard for each of his Pinot Noir selections. Several different Pinot Noir clones, some planted as early as 1983, add to the palette of flavor and texture from which to craft each Pinot Noir. In 2006, Bruce chose 6 clones from 16 vineyard lots (Lafond Vineyard and the nearby Arita Hills Vineyard) picked at ripness over a four week period.

Vintage 2006 saw crop yields a little lighter than 2005, with very good fruit concentration. The Pinot Noir harvest was also exactly a month later than in 2005. The wine was aged in French oak from Burgundy (25% new oak) and bottled in August 2007. The complexity of flavor found in Pinot Noir from Lafond Vineyard is a wonderful match with savory foods and a classic with grilled salmon or mushrooms.

Suggested Retail 26.00

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Frost and the Christmas Party

We combined both.

The vines close down after harvest. The cold weather allows them to remain dormant during the winter months. Pruning begins once the vines are dormant and continues until February.

The party, a pot-luck dinner, included all those working at the winery, their spouses and their children.

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Re-Planting

The life-cycle for vineyards is usually around 30 years — yields drop — and fashions change.

12 foot rows and 8 foot plant spacing, common in the 70s, was determined by the equipment then available. Todays  6 foot rows and 4 foot spacing — tripling the number of plants per acre – with better clones, better trellising and better farming practices – makes better wine.

15 acres of Davis clone Chardonnay, on its own roots, will be replaced by four new Chardonnay clones grafted to a root stock chosen for its compatibility to the soil and climate.

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New Release Lafond Winery 2006 SRH Syrah

 Lafond Winery 2006 SRH Syrah

The ‘SRH’ designation on the Lafond label signals Winemaker Bruce McGuire’s intent to blend a selection of vineyards located in the Santa Rita Hills AVA (American Viticultural Area). Located in the western end if the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Rita Hills is a cold climate region where grapes benefit from a very long growing season.

After the bountiful 2005 harvest, the Syrah vines rested a little. Between the smaller harvest and Bruce’s strict selection criteria from within our vineyard and the neighboring Hill Top Ranch Vineyard, the production of the 2006 was down by 550 cases. The wine shows the beginnings of being a big Syrah needing time to integrate in the bottle to show off the concentrated fruit and intense flavors.

Bruce’s selection of seventeen vineyard lots from multiple Syrah clones has really paid off in a powerful expression of fruit from aroma to finish. He then aged the wine in a blend barrels to give the wine layers of complexity and texture. This Syrah shows the “cool-climate” character found in Syrah grown in the Santa Rita Hills. Flavors are marked by forward dark berry, violets, and terrific white pepper spice intensity.

This wine will nicely integrate in the bottle before early 2009 and will continue to be very impressive into 2012. One of our favorite wines for pairing with hearty fare and grilled foods, this wine is also fun to match with cheese such as Taleggio.

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Piedmont Tasting

If you are ever interested in learning more about a specific wine region or varietal, grab a group of friends and host a themed wine tasting.  A couple of coworkers and I started a monthly tasting group to do just this so we could learn more about tasting through focused study.  Our first tasting was Pinot and last night we had our second, focusing on wines from the Piedmont region of Italy. 

Varietals from this region, which is located in the area surrounding Alba bordering France, include Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto and Arneis (to name a few).  Our meetings focus around dinner and blind tasting. 

Each person brings a bottle, and upon arrival it is immediately poured into a numbered decanter by the host, who gets a completely different experience of the blind tasting because they know what is being served.  I have been really excited about this tasting ever since the theme was chosen because these unique wines are not easily accessible or inexpensive. 

Nebbiolo is the grape of the Barolos and Barbarescos and rarely is it seen grown outside of Piedmont (though we actually produce a Nebbiolo from the Stolpman Vineyard).  It is so easy for me to get sucked into only drinking California wines, especially Santa Barbara wines, because they are familiar and easy to get. 

When learning about wine it is so important to focus on specifics and have a comparison level for what you are drinking.  Don’t just drink wines because they are familiar and easy to get your hands on, but do some research, go to your local wine store, ask your wine snob friend to show off his knowledge, and try something new.

Eleven decanters lined up next to each other (all full of red wines) on the kitchen counter is quite a sight.  These wines, although characteristically concentrated and tannic are lighter in color than I would have expected, almost like an older Burgundy.  One by one we tasted and talked about the wines, remaining surprisingly focused the entire time. 

All of the wines exhibited dry, mouth puckering tannins, gripping mouth feel, and aromas of dehydrated ripe fruit, truffles, and concentrated liquorice.  Barrel and subsequent bottle aging allows the tannins to soften and makes for a more approachable wine.  It was interesting to see how time can allow this to happen and be able to detect this softness.  Long lingering, astringent finishes showed unique complexities coating the entire mouth and sides of the tongue.

The food of the night was perfect for the wines, including grilled rosemary lamb with truffle butter, vegetarian meatballs (whose acidic tomato sauce went perfectly with the slight acidity characteristic of Italian wines), Bagna Cauda, and a selection of Fontina and Truffle cheeses. 

Truffles seemed to appear everywhere - in the wine, in the oil drizzled over the grilled vegetables, in the cheese, and in the butter used on the lamb.  Here is where the integration of food and wine contributes to transforming these parts into an experience.  Wine number three was the Santa Barbara Winery 04 Nebbiolo, and tasting it with the truffle cheese was an unbelievable pairing. 

The night felt very Italian not only in terms of the wine, but also the food, and most importantly sharing these things with friends and good company over a few hours.  I brought the wine that won the tasting - a 1997 Moccagotta Bric Balin Barbaresco.  It really stood out from the rest, and after each wine we tasted I said I still liked wine #2 the best (which turned out to be my wine).  So I guess that means dinner is at my house next time… Chateauneuf du Pape tasting?

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